Al aktivitet

Jvf. den dialog jeg havde med Elit sidste år, så understøtter de kun tryk. De understøtter ikke temp. sensor. Derudover har Logic Group har sagt at de kommer med en tilsvarende gateway for Z-Wave. Den fremgår dog endnu ikke af deres website. Jeg har fra anden side hørt at det er præcis samme gateway, bortset fra at Logic group's benytter Z-Wave mens Elit's benytter ZigBee.

Hej Per Hvordan virker disse Elit-IHC link med input moduler med monteret input temperatur sensorer - Kan man få temperaturen med i gennem? Har i noget test af om de virker med en Hubitat Elevation Zigbee Hub? Mvh Christian

Hej Per Hvordan virker disse Elit-IHC link med input moduler med monteret input temperatur sensorer - Kan man få temperaturen med i gennem? Har i noget test af om de virker med en Hubitat Elevation Zigbee Hub? Mvh Christian

Serie koblede 230V lampeudtag har jeg aldrig hørt om før. Hvis du har 2 230V lampeudtag som er serie koblet, har du kun 115V på hvert lampeudtag, og er 1 pære defekt, vil begge lamper holde op med at lyse. Jeg vil derfor helt klart anbefale dig at du får en elektriker til at kigge på installationen, for det er IKKE normalt og muligvis heller ikke lovligt. De få 100 kr. det koster at få en elektriker til at skifte dine lampeudtag kan hurtigt være tjent hjem i skader somfølge af fejl i installationen.

Jeg har sådan en gang LSA klemmer i overskud. De kan side bag afdækningen på en gruppetavle hvis man skruer din-skinnen af. 200 kr. Kan hentes i Sorø eller sendes med GLS.

Jeg kører IHC komponenter uden controller og har lampeudtagene liggende. Det er til 230V, så tak for afklaring, jeg må kigge på at få lavet dem parallelle i stedet for.

Hvis der er 230V på lampeudtagne er jeg ret sikker på at de allerede er parallelt forbundne. Hvis det er lavspændings lampeudtag kan de godt være serie forbundene, men så er kablerne sandsynligvis ikke godkendt til 230V. Men alt det kan din elektriker hurtigt afgøre. LK IHC lampeudtag kan ikke serie forbindes. De skal forbindes parallelt for at fungere. men bortset fra det er LK IHC jo udgået, så medmindre du allerede har en LK IHC controller, vil jeg klart anbefale dig at kigge på et andet produkt.

Jeg har en eksisterende installation med 3 serieforbundne lampeudtag. Er det muligt at skifte dem ud med IHC lampeudtag 1-1 og seriemontere forsyningen på samme måde eller er jeg nødt til at starte forfra, så de kan blive parallelt forbundne?

Du kan også bare sætte bootcamp op på din Mac?

Jeg har aldrig haft en windos tablet i hånden, så jeg ved ikke om LK IHC Visual kan installeres på sådan en.

Hej Lars1 Tak for svar, det er meget brugbart og besvare jo meget fint alle mine spørgsmål, jeg vil kigge om jeg evt kan finde en brugt windows pc og nogle reservedele hvis uheldet skulle være ude. Kan man bruge en windows baseret tablet til at downloade installationen/ inc programmeringen ? Min installation er kun til styring af lys og røgalarmer. jeg ligge et billede op senere. men ind til nu tusinde tak for svar Mvh. Morten

Sorry to hear that, but not surprisingly, since the Visual 3 controller was never sold outside DK.

Yes I received the message/reply from local (finnish) representative and he said nothing can be done. No spares and nothing. Not helpful at all.

Does anyone know where to find the english version of 1.32? I remember there was many years ago.

Hej Morten, Hvordan er dit Genvex forbundet til HA?

Wiser og LK IHC er to MEGET forskellige teknologier. De fungere IKKE samme. De kan faktisk slet ikke kommuniker med hinanden, da LK IHC wireless benytter Wavenis protokollen, mens Wiser benytter Zigbee. Wiser er dog ikke designet til kun at fungere med deres egne komponenter. Wiser funger sammen med andre produkter som benytter Zigbee protokollen, men der kan være kompabilitets udfordringer, da ikke alle Zigbee produkter overholder standarden 100%

Wiser-systemet er designet til at fungere med deres egne komponenter, så der kan være problemer med at integrere IHC-trykknapper direkte. Her er nogle trin, du kan overveje: Kompatibilitet: Tjek, om din IHC-trykknap er kompatibel med Wiser. Wiser understøtter typisk kun deres egne produkter. Tilføj en Wiser-trykknap: Hvis det er muligt, kan du overveje at bruge en Wiser-trykknap i stedet for IHC-trykknappen. Reset og genopdag: Sørg for at nulstille Wiser-systemet og prøve at tilføje trykknappen igen. Nogle gange kan en genstart hjælpe. Firmware-opdatering: Kontroller, om der er opdateringer til din Wiser-app eller enheder, da dette kan løse kompatibilitetsproblemer.

Well. If that's what you prioritize, I would look at Zwave or Zigbee products instead. They are both decentralized too, and are open standards with multiple vendors. With Shelly you really need to look at the details of their full portfolio. As far as I remember not all of their components works on WI-FI, which is the main reason why I decided not to go with them. Did you get in contract with Schneider, and what did they say? My controller was replaced free of charge less than 6 months ago. I only had to pay for the return shipment.

I’ve recently started looking into alternative smart home products, and Shelly has caught my attention. What fascinates me most is its decentralized system—unlike centralized platforms like IHC, there’s no single point of failure. Instead, each Shelly device (relays, switches, etc.) operates independently, communicating directly over Wi-Fi. This means you can control them through Shelly’s own app, Home Assistant, or any other compatible platform. If one device fails, you simply replace it—no complex reconfiguration needed. Plus, they’re surprisingly affordable. For example, a 3-output relay (16A per channel) costs only around €80, making it a cost-effective and reliable choice for home automation. Actually now when I have to find a new Visual 3 controller, which is about 800€, I can buy 10 of these Shelly relays and get rid of the IHC totally.

I got mine replaces about 3-6 months ago. Schneider got a number of Visual 3 controllers back from the technical schools, and they have been able to refurbished some too. Go to lk.dk and click on support. There you will see all the contact info's. My experience is that they answer the phone pretty quickly, but the support form is slower and you might not get an answer at all.

I haven't switched to Shelly, but I've looked at it and decided it's not the right way for me. It's a while back, but as far as I remember the reason is that it's using various communication standards depending on the components, and not all supports all communication standards. You therefore risk having a mixed setup. On top of that, I think there were some strange things with how you control the dimmers. Regarding KNX, please bear in mind that it's not a proprietary product like LK IHC. It's an industry standard, which means there are multiple vendors, so if one decides to drop KNX you still have other vendors to choose from. I'm not 100%, but I actually think Shelly is proprietary like LK IHC, which means you have a greater risk ending up in the same situation with Shelly than with KNX.

Hi. Mine just did the same. When where you able to get it replaced at Schneider? Thought they were all out. /Lasse

A follow-up to my accident. I had a 6 year old Visual 1 version controller on a shelf in the warehouse. I didn't think it would work anymore, but I replaced it with that broken VIsual 3 version. The surprise was when everything went back to normal and all the lighting and other things controlled by the IHC were working in the house. A couple of minor changes still need to be made to work by programming the IHC. As long as I can just get the computers hooked up to it on the serial bus. As I recall, it used to be a pain to get it to play with a Windows machine. I'll send that broken controller to be examined, if there's a component that could be replaced to fix it. Because of this problem, I'm thinking of starting a project to replace the electrical controls in my house away from the IHC system. I have already briefly researched various options, and so far switching to Shelly components seems to be a cheap and quick solution. Is there anyone here on the forum who has swapped the central bus components for Shelly products? For the more expensive ones like KNX I don't want to go with what I learned from this IHC saga. My house also has a well working HomeAssistant installation, so connecting new components to it using e.g. Shelly is completely painless.

It sounds like what happened to my Visual 3 controller too. I called LK and got it replaced. Alternatively, you need to look for an used Visual 2 controller. It will work just as fine as the Visual 3 controller, unless you have LED dimmers, as Visual 2 doesn't support those.

Hi. I'm a first-time writer here. I've had an IHC setup for over 20 years and a few years ago I updated the controller to the latest version. Now one day ago the controller stopped working and I've tried to get it back to life with various tricks. I have a Windows 10 laptop that has previously worked both via USB and over the network (the controller is connected to a mesh router with a cable). The green OK light on the controller is on but it no longer controls any input and output modules. I've started it many times and waited 20 seconds in between. I've connected it to the computer with a USB cable, but the computer programs don't detect it. I've tried the official programs and IHC Starter. They've worked perfectly before. Although I've used the computer and cable very rarely. Many months ago. Also official firmware loader does not recognise the usb at all. The controller failed last fall (it no longer worked via the network connection, I have a HomeAssistant installation and it controls some IHC functions)) and I removed the original SD card. I cloned it from the backup but I've been using the controller without the card and it's been working just fine up until now. IHC Starter says it doesn't recognize any USB drivers, and it can't find the controller via the USB cable or the network connection. The network connection doesn't seem to work at all, even though the connector LEDs are flashing. How do I restore the connection and get the controller working normally again? I'm in an emergency.